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  • 2016: Many Happy Returns

    2016: Many Happy Returns

    I rarely travel to the same place twice. With the exception of major transit hubs like London or Bangkok, it’s uncommon that a certain destination finds its way into more than one itinerary. However, this holiday season was an exception....Read more
  • Tajikistan: From the Pamirs to the Wakhan

    Tajikistan: From the Pamirs to the Wakhan

    Among travelers, the Pamirs Mountains are mythologized more than any other region of Central Asia. They are characterized by austere landscapes, headache-inducing altitudes, and nonexistent transportation. And this is mostly accurate. In the Pamirs you certainly see more foreigners on bicycles...Read more
  • Are Today’s Most Intrepid Travelers Couples?

    Are Today’s Most Intrepid Travelers Couples?

    I recently spent several days in the town of Khorog on Tajikistan’s Afghan border, and something struck me as odd. At the hostel where I stayed there were only couples. Sitting in the garden of the Pamir Lodge one morning,...Read more

Past Features

tumblr_mllcqkJMJ41qe85tko1_r2_1280-2GEORGIA: Eight Acts – For all the post-Soviet gloom that is projected on Georgia, I found it to have a quirky and unusual, even carnavalesque, quality. With the air of an animated novel—heavy subjects viewed through a light medium. A story full of cartoons that…

tumblr_mkjuvkvPdw1qe85tko1_r1_1280IRAQ: Kurdish Iraq and the Temple at Lalish – We found Nikson loitering outside the hotel; or Nikson found us. In a white t-shirt, jeans, high-top sneakers, and messy spiked hair, he could have been any seventeen-year-old from Brooklyn…

tumblr_mgaqibVLiM1qe85tko1_1280ALBANIA: Blame Enver Hoxha – I can’t imagine arriving overland in Albania and not feeling like you’ve suddenly stepped into another world.  It started with the bunkers. Minutes after crossing the border, as my bus crested a hill overlooking Lake Ohrid…

tumblr_mfoi1sz0zz1qe85tko1_r2_1280ROMANIA: Transylvania is Creepy (Really) – Transylvania may be the creepiest place on earth, but it’s also the first place on my trip that I really fell in love with. I arrived by train a few hours before dawn and slept on the station platform…

Mideast 2 1213EGYPT: So Many Cairos – Omar shouted from the car, “I would go back if I were you.” I closed the door and he sped off. It was after midnight and I was waiting at a rest area in the cold Sinai desert with a bunch of anxious Egyptians. I had arrived from Israel the week prior…

tumblr_mm6wj9sRp81qe85tko8_1280TURKEY: Along the Black Sea – It was the second time that I raced back westward. The first was to meet a girl. This time, the only thing waiting for me was an airplane. It was nearly October, and my plan to cross the Caspian was falling apart…